COVERING BEARD SHADOW

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jenni2604
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Mar 06, 2013 2:23 am
Location: Mold North Wales

COVERING BEARD SHADOW

Postby jenni2604 » Tue Mar 12, 2013 2:55 am

Hello, it’s me again... Jen, the Make-up Artist :makeupx: who has been working and researching hard to bring you girls up to date with the latest tricks of the trade on the most relevant cosmetic issues faced by the TG communities......well, that’s the plan of action so let’s see what transpires :-)

As of yet, no one has asked a question on make-up techniques, so I explored the internet in search of the most frequently asked questions that also received high viewings. Beard coverage was one of them and I hope this will be a good starting point. Ice Maiden has also been very kind and extremely helpful by providing me with inspiration on relevant topics to add to the beauty blog. Watch this space ladies as lots more will follow. :clap: This brings me onto my third beauty blog in the series ;o) - Beard Shadow.

SHAVING ROUTINE

Before I go ahead and discuss how best to cover beard shadow, I will firstly need to highlight the best skin preparation technique to help you to achieve the closest shave possible and a good base for which to apply the products to achieve maximum coverage, longevity and flawless skin.

Who am I to advise you on shaving techniques, I hear you ask? .... Well, I may not have personal experience shaving my face... not yet at least...although 10 years down the line I may well be joining you! I do shave other sensitive areas you know and quite often in fact! Consequently, if I use the wrong product, the blunt razor (because I've run out of blades and well...it’s the only one I have to hand! :shifty: ) and shave just in one direction, I am going to suffer for it and suffer I do on occasion....I’m only human! But for optimum results with less friction burns (ouch :oops: ) and uncomfortable rashes (nasty :shock: ), follow the tips below:

If you want to reduce razor burns, bumps and in-growing hairs from wet shaving, then take note of the following 4 tips:

Warm up the skin to open pores – exfoliate – lubricate and shave – balm to soothe and moisturise.

1) Open those pores

Begin by washing your face with warm water. Dampen a flannel or hand towel with hot (not boiling) water, carefully squeezing out the residue. Place the damp flannel over your face allowing the heat to stimulate your skin, which in turn will open up your pores. Alternatively, you can cleanse and shave during a shower or hot bath which will produce the same effect.

Your pores act as channels that lead down to the hair follicles which lie beneath the surface of the skin (epidermis). These channels often get blocked with natural oils, grime and dead skin cells. If your skin is not cleansed thoroughly to help remove these impurities, you could start to develop problematic skin like acne, pustules and ingrowing hairs. Opening up the pores allows for deeper cleansing resulting in a clearer, brighter, healthier complexion.


2) Exfoliate

Gently exfoliating the skin will help to wash away imbedded impurities and soften the skins surface. Exfoliators often contain hydrating products, which help soften the bristles in preparation of a close, clean shave.
There is no need to exfoliate every day prior to shaving, just once or twice a week depending on your skin type is sufficient. Try using a facial cleansing bar or water soluble cleaning cream during the rest of the week in replace of exfoliation.

3) Lubricate and shave towards the growth not against:

Apply your preferred lubricant be it cream, foam, oil or gel; massage the lubricant into the skin with your fingertips or a shaving brush. This allows the product to be worked into the facial hair, lifting it and softening it in preparation for shaving. If you can, leave the lubricant on the face for at least a minute prior to shaving to aid further absorption.

Whenever possible it is advisable to use a new blade or one that is still sharp enough to cut cleanly without having to be pressed and dragged against the skin causing nicks, blotches and irritation ...not good :problem: !

Shave towards the growth of the hair first, as this removes the bulk of the hairs causing less irritation and stress on the hair follicle. Then shave against the growth for a closer shave. Pat your skin dry and do not rub!

4) Soothe and Moisturise:

Apply a soothing balm to calm the skin and moisturise for suppleness, hydration and protection. I have within my men’s kit: Keihls -The Ultimate Mens Aftershave Balm. This works well as it soothes and moisturises the skin after shaving and is suitable for all skin types. There are many other brands on the market for you to try and again, this comes down to personal choice. Two other well known brands are Nivea Post Shave Balm and Clarins Aftershave soother, to name but two.

After moisturising, allow at least 5 minutes for the moisturiser to settle into the skin. If any residue remains, you can blot this by using tissue prior to your make-up application.

CONCEALING BEARD SHADOW - PRODUCTS

Now that we have a good starting point and your skin is as smooth as a baby’s bottom, soothed and completely hydrated, we can begin with disguising that beard shadow! [yesss]

There are many products on the market today, which are easily sourced to help camouflage beard shadow. I have taken the time to research the most frequently used and recommended products on the market and have suggested sites where the products can be sourced:

Mehron Clown Pink -
Apparently this is ideal coverage for darker blue hue shades of beard shadow.I have ordered this product today so have yet to use it. When received, it will be tested and I will update you all on the coverage and the texture. I am also interested in finding out how well foundation applies over this product, as I believe the texture is quite sticky. So stay tuned!

Dermablend cover cream
I believe the link for this product is on this website. There are many skin tones available to suit your skin tone and it cover’s well. I love this video which shows the Derma Leg and Body foundation being used to cover tattoos. You can use this product on the face too and it is similar to that of Dermablend cover cream. I love this music and video! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ao3z_DFtuss

For information on how best to apply the Dermablend products and a great guide on choosing the colour, go to dermablend.com which is the main USA site, so not ideal for ordering, but great if you want to read about their products in detail and the correct application techniques. You can source all these products from UK suppliers.

Ben Nye Beard Cover 5 O Sharp
Again, very good coverage and they come in 5 shades, which can be applied beneath or over foundation and blended together to obtain the right shade . Just as the products highlighted above, Ben Nye beard cover needs to be set with powder. This seals the product providing long lasting coverage. One stop shop that supplies all of these products are dauphines.

Pan Stick Foundations -
Can be bought from a variety of high street cosmetic stores. The common variety is the pan stick produced by Max Factor which provides good coverage and has a creamy texture. The pigmentation however is average. If you are looking for a heavier pigment and extra coverage then the pan sticks used for theatre products are the best. Ben Nye, Screenface, MAC, Make-up forever, Kryolan and Mehron pan sticks work really well. Many of these products can be sourced via the internet and through the professional make-up shop at guru makeup emporium.


SO HOW DO THEY WORK?


The products work well at covering up beard shadow, because they follow the basic colour correction theory. If you take a look at the colour wheel http://www.tigercolor.com/color-lab/col ... monies.htm and locate the colour blue. The colour directly opposite the blue on the colour wheel is orange. This is called the complementary colour and all the complementary colours sit directly opposite each other at the wheel. When the colour is applied over the area, in the case of a beard shadow, orange over a blue hue, they create maximum contrast. By adding foundation over the orange corrector, you are able to produce a colour match that best compliments your natural skin tone producing a flawless coverage.


The same principle applies if you want to cover red blemishes. To even out your skin tone you would choose a green base...but not too much! (I did this once when younger and used half a tube – you can imagine what I looked like afterwards...incredible hulk come to mind!)Then apply your foundation over this colour and bobs your uncle! Flawless even skin tone!

Right now down to the nitty gritty of the application techniques. What follows is my technique which I used on my reluctant 20 year old son and husband, prior to their ‘full’ make-over. Girls, I have to practise what I preach and who better to practice on than family members! God bless them.

I used Dermacolour camouflage palette NR2. The colour that worked best for both was D31 & D32 and this is how I applied the products.

APPLICATION TECHNIQUE:

1) After prepping the skin (cleanse, tone and moisturise) I allowed the products to settle into the skin before applying a primer to even out the complexion providing a barrier between the moisturiser and foundation. Primers provide longevity of the foundation and act as a protective barrier between the moisturiser and foundation, they also contain specific ingredients formulated to suit your individual skin type and condition. For instance, if you have combination skin, suffer from an oily T –Zone (forehead, nose and chin) and have enlarged pores, you may opt for a primer that helps to combat all of these issues such as Benefit Pore-fessional Primer. I have this one in my kit and it works really well. If you have dry skin which may on occasion looks dull may opt to choose a primer provides continuous hydration throughout the day and also has illuminating properties such as L’Oreal Lumi Magique. Choose a primer that best suits your skin type for optimum results.

2) Take a small amount of your product – in my case D31 and D32, blend and apply to the skin with a light stippling action using your finger. The natural warmth from your fingertips softens the products consistency allowing the product to spread more evenly. Apply the product over your beard shadow and down upon your neck in fine layers. You can build up the coverage gradually if necessary, but remember, always apply the product in thin layers and don’t be tempted to slap it on for a quick fix. It doesn’t work and less is always more! Once applied you can blend the product into the skin and smooth out the lines. Don’t be alarmed by the colour, as your foundation and powder will be applied over this leaving no tell tale signs, just a flawless beautiful complexion.

3) Once the shadow and neck are fully covered leave the product to settle onto the skin for at least 3 minutes. Next apply translucent loose powder over the corrector with a powder puff pressing the powder into the product. Before brushing away the residue powder leave the product on the skin for a few minutes to absorb any excess moisture, than using a powder brush, gently remove the remaining powder off the skin. The powder seals the corrector and provides a long lasting base. Dermablend produce a specific powder that not only sets the product but provides a water resistant base that lasts up to 16 hours.

4) Now apply your foundation. I used a liquid foundation (MAC studio fix) on top of the colour corrector and this worked well. I applied it in thin layers (always layer ladies) building up the coverage gradually. A crème pan stick foundation works really well if a heavier coverage is required.

5) Then set the foundation with powder and you have the perfect flawless base to apply the rest of your make-up.

For a quick fix you could use a matt orange lipstick. Be careful not to use a long lasing lipstick that contains ingredients to stain the lips. This could become very difficult to remove. A cheap matt effect lipstick which is not too moisturising or glossy will work well but the overall affect will not last as long. Also, it would be wise to do a patch test first to ensure that the ingredients in the lipstick do not irritate your skin, which may be very sensitive after shaving. If using lipstick or cream blusher, remember to set the product in place with powder prior to applying foundation. This will absorb any moisture and the coverage will last longer.

Hope this helps! As always please feel free to ask any questions and make any suggestions of topic you would like to be covered. I will be happy to help.

Hugs to all
Jen XX

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