Brow grooming and masking out

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Brow grooming and masking out

Postby jenni2604 » Thu Mar 07, 2013 10:31 pm


Welcome to my 2nd instalment on the Transgenderzone forum, which is tailored around the brows.

What I try to do when I find a moment is to sit down, coffee at hand and write. So, if there are times when there are gaps in my blogs of days or a couple of weeks, you know I am a busy bee, but will definitely get back to you! In the interim, my time (having to be spent at home) allows me to put pen to paper and share some beauty secrets with you girls!

We all know that our brows define our eyes and are the framework that completes the pretty picture (US). They have important functions too which are both Physical and Psychological. Eyebrows are there to prevent moisture from getting into our eyes. They also play a vital role by complimenting our expressions.

Some of us are lucky to have the type of eyebrows that just grow perfectly; perfect shape, perfect length and not at all troublesome. No need to be touched up, trimmed or plucked, but just brushed into shape on occasion. I however, am not one of those fortunate individuals, are you?

I have been on the receiving end of excessive plucking and a brutal wax session resulting in bald patches, uneven and sparse eyebrows that once gone... never return! YET, you can guarantee that the regular ones – you know..the DEFIANT STUBBORN ONES.. that grow three inches away from your brow that you could probably plat if there were two others of a kind..those blighter's just NEVER stop growing! Typical!

So here goes, I have put together some eyebrow shaping techniques for those who are ready to have the defined permanently groomed eyebrow and some cover-up eyebrow ideas that some may want to use on those special occasions. So please, take from it what you will and remember that these are some techniques that work well for some but not others. If you already have a preferred method and it works for you, then there is no reason why you shouldn’t continue. Just go with what suits you best. For the rest of us, here are some tips that you may find useful.

If you’re a first time plucker, (not sure if there is such a word, but you get my drift!) it may prove to be a daunting first time experience. The orbital area around the eye can be very sensitive, and when your removing hairs directly from the roots, it can feel painful and a little uncomfortable. It also doesn't help that every person’s tolerance level varies dramatically. For some people it can hurt more than it does for others. The following tips are also worth following if you have a strong dense hair growth, where the hair is often thick and very coarse. To begin with try to pluck one or two stray hairs and if this is too uncomfortable for you, then follow the tips below:

1) At least two hours before you begin, take an over the counter pain-relief tablet such as Nurofen, which will lessen the pain making the process a little more tolerable.
(please note that I am not advocating pain relief tablets. Its just another option)
2) Cleanse the eyebrow area
3) Decide on your shape using the details below or if you just want to tidy up your shape for a cleaner, smarter natural look. Start by marking out the area between your brows and the eyelid exposed underneath them; do not be tempted to drift the marker towards you natural brow shape. You could start with trimming the length of the eyebrow hair with trimming scissors if your eyebrows are too long. If you do not want friends and family to remark on your sudden change in appearance, take your time over this process by removing a few hairs at a time throughout three or four sessions over the commencing weeks. The change will then be a gradual one and therefore less noticeable.
4) When you are ready, place a flannel or cotton pad into hot water (not boiling water)and squeeze out the excess. Place the flannel/cotton pad on top of your eyebrows for a few minutes. The heat will encourage the hair follicle to open up slightly, which will make it easier for you to remove the hairs
5) Try to use a set of tweezers that are slanted, as these tweezers make it easier for you to grip minimizing slipping. Individual hairs can then be removed rather than large clumps (ouch)
6) Remove the hairs by pulling in the direction of the hair growth rather than against it and when the hair has been removed press the area with your fingertips to help numb the tingling pain sensation.
7) After removing the hair, place an ice cube on the area or a cooled wet teabag to soothe the irritation, reducing the redness and the swelling.

• Eye cleanser
• White eyeliner pencil to use as a marker
• Orange wood stick or very thin make-up brush
• Slanted Tweezers which are the best for gripping and eyebrow trimmers/scizzors

Using a straight object like a thin make up brush or orange wood stick, line up the corner of the nose with the inner corner of the eye just outside of the tear duct to find your starting point. Mark the point with your white eyeliner pencil and this marks the start of your brow.

Then with the stick placed alongside the corner of the nose look straight ahead and arch the stick outwards towards the centre of the eye stopping at the end pint of the iris (not the pupil as some recommend) and this is where the highest point of the arch commences. Mark the point with your pencil.

Finally through the corner of the nose to the outer corner of the eye to find the finishing point. However, for youthful looking eyes the length can be extended over this point. Mark this point with your liner.

Ta da! Begin by brushing back the eyebrow hairs again the growth lifting them upwards. Use your eyebrow trimming scissors to reduce the length of the long brow hairs that are not going to be plucked. Brush the brows back into shape and start plucking girls and try to remember
never to take the hairs out from above the natural eye brow line. Cleanse the eye area after the hard work has been done! If swollen, follow the number 7 step above!

This can be done if you want to mask out your entire brow and add your own eyebrow shape without plucking your brows.
You can use spirit gum and wax or the method I prefer which is pros-aide because it is the strongest medical grade adhesive that can be built up gradually without the need for wax application and it stays put! Wax is difficult to apply and is very difficult to blend in, so this is why I prefer this medium. Please note that due to its adhesive qualities it needs to be removed with pros-aide remover.

• Cleanse the brows with oil free cleanser to remove natural oils and wait for it to dry
• Brush the brows upwards to take a look at the hair growth and its direction and you are going to apply the glue against the growth. For this use a disposable eyelash/brow brush (not comb)
• With a spatula or other useful flat sided metal implement take a small amount of pros-aide glue from the container
• Place the pros-aide directly onto the brow hairs starting from the outer edge of you brow and working your way inwards towards against the hairline growth covering the eyebrow completely
• With your brow brush, brush the brow back into place which ensures all the brow hairs are covered and the application is very smooth.
• Press a heavy duty translucent powder on top of the brow sealing the glue in place ensuring the full brow is covered. Brush away access powder
• Apply another layer of pros-aide on top but this time pressing the glue against the brow bone ensuring a smooth application. Work from both sides of the hair growth ensuring full coverage and keep pressing and smoothing out the product to adhere the hairs flat against your brow bone. Apply powder to each layer and continue the process until you are happy with the overall look.
• If you are fair you can go straight in to apply a heavy based foundation such as a foundation pan stick. Kryolan produce heavy duty theatre foundation so produce a lot of these pan stick foundations in a variety of colours to suit all skin types. If you are very dark haired you would be better firstly using an orange colour corrector, blending this in and then applying your foundation on top of this.
• Now girls, you are free to draw your desired brow shape and continue applying the rest of your make-up.

Pros-aide is expensive when purchasing the standard jar from Screenface or Gurumakeup. I have found a smaller bottle that comes with the remover and would be ideal for people who want to try it out before spending big bucks on a larger jar! I’ve purchased my Pros-aide from a web site called Coscraft at £12.99 inclusive of p&p. Not recommending them but it’s just another source should you be interested in making a purchase.

I hope this helps! Please let me know if there is anything else you would like to be covered.

Will be back next week with an update!


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Ice Maiden
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Re: Brow grooming and masking out

Postby Ice Maiden » Fri Mar 08, 2013 3:50 pm

Very useful content :) Glad we have chatted on email. There is another in your inbox (no pun intended).
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